This is the fouth part of this Ma Kettle's version of brewing beer.

After the brew has fermented for about a week the level of carbon dioxide given off would have reduced considerably. As carbon dioxide is a heavy gas it also creates a kind of seal above the brew so reducing contamination provided it has not been disturbed. If a bubbler has been used it is safe to leave the brew a couple of days to confirm fermentation has finished but it is not recommended if a bubbler has not been used or the brew has been disturbed.

If a keg is being used this needs to be sterilized or forty pint bottles and crowns along with a tube to decant the beer with. The keg or bottles then need to be primed, this is usually a tea spoon of spray malt (or half a tea spoon of sugar) per pint bottle. Now the fermentation vessel is placed up high, in our case a stool on the dining room table, this allows gravity to help fill the bottles. When placing the tube in the liquid next, do not push it all the way to the bottom, as the layer of sediment tastes terrible.

Fill the keg or bottles and seal them by either the air tight top or crown before leaving them for a minimum of six weeks, although I find two months form initial brewing is easier to work out. This time allows the beer to become conditioned and a majority of the sediment to fall to the bottom. Some darker beers can take up to six months before the full rich flavour comes through so please do not rush into drinking it.

Don't Forget next month on September 19th is international talk like a pirate day.

This is the third part of this Ma Kettle's version of brewing beer.

After the grains have sat for an hour and a half, drain off a minimum of a couple of pints and pour it over the grains. (If the fermenting bin does not have a tap at the bottom, I recommend using a second bin, a very large sieve and a muslin.) Now drain off all the liquid and place it in a saucepan.

Now pour boiling water through the grains, twice and then drain off this liquid too and place in the saucepan. Repeat this until the specific gravity (SGs) are below 1010SGs at 20ºC or there is no more space in several saucepans (remember this liquid will be expected to boil so not all the way up to the top).

Bring all this liquid to the boil and add the first or main batch of hops. Boil for three quarters of an hour, before adding the next batch of hops. Boil for a quarter of an hour, before adding any sugar required. Boil for another quarter of an hour, before adding a tea spoon of irish moss. This is used to reduce the amount of loose sediment in the brew and so taint the flavor of the beer. Boil for another quarter of an hour, before straining into a fermentation vessel.

Add water to make up the difference between the boiled liquid and the required amount to brew, usually five gallons or forty pints. If the fermentation vessel is designed to take a bubbler, it is highly recommended to use one as it again reduces the chances of contaminateion. Add any hops required for a dry hop and when the temperature has dropped below 25ºC add the yeast. The yeast usually takes about a day to show any real evidence of working.

This is the second part of this Ma Kettle's version of brewing beer. Please note this is the general recipe, it does not include quantities of grains, malt or hops.

Three days before beer is going to be brewed a yeast starter needs to be made unless a packet of dried brewers yeast is being used. Sterilize all equipment that is going to be used either by boiling or using sterilizing solution. This is to stop contamination of the beer, as unclean or unsterilized items will allow beer to go moldy rather than ferment.

Heat two to three gallons of water to 75ºC. There are eight pints in one gallon, so between sixteen and twenty-four milk bottles of water. Pour this water into a fermentation vessel and check the waters temperature has fallen to 72º. The basic fermentation vessel looks like a large open bin.

Mix into the water the ingredients, starting with the darkest grains, stirring constantly to prevent dry lumps appearing. If malt extract syrup is being used, a pound (or two parts) is equivalent to one and a half pounds (or three parts) crushed pale malt. Once the pale malt touches the hot water it releases a smell like Horlicks Malt drink. When all the ingredients have been added check the temperature is 66º. Add more hot or cold water till 66ºC is reached and all the grains are covered. Now place a lid on and wrap the fermentation bin up in a bin liner and then a thick duvet (to keep it warm) for an hour and a half.

(Please note they recommend that when cleaning cloths, to remove germs, high temperatures are used at least 60°C. Cooking food thoroughly also reduces the number of germs. Therefore the grains are soaked in water over his temperature.)

This is the first part of this Ma Kettle's version of brewing beer.
Three days before beer is made, a yeast starter is started. This is created from live, bottle conditioned beer or the last batch of beer brewed and spray malt.

First bring a milk bottle to the boil in a large saucepan. All the glass needs to be under the surface of the boiling water as this reduces the germs. In another saucepan bring half a pint of water to the boil and add three tables spoons of spray malt (sugar can be used instead). Allow to boil for a couple of minutes after it has all dissolved. Pour the mixture into the milk bottle and add a cork and bubbler (this reduces the chances of unwanted bacteria growing). When the temperature has dropped below 25º add the yeast part of the bottle of live or bottle conditioned beer. Then store in a warm spot till ready to brew the beer. (This used to be the airing cupboard till we got a combi boiler and the airing cupboard became a shower!)